When I first discovered Japanese kimono silk, it was its intrinsic qualities that I fell in love with. The fabric was sturdy but not stiff, it was soft and draped well but was not limp and had unusual colors that were not weird but were beautiful. I especially loved the evidence of the human hand. I could actually see that someone, an artisan, had painted, stenciled and woven these amazing fabrics.
In the beginning I focused on the textures, the visible brush strokes, the tie-dyed patterns and the splashes of paint. I chose the silks that were not obviously ‘Japanese.’ As time went by and the more I studied this amazing art form the more I appreciated the traditional designs, pine trees, clouds, flying cranes, chrysanthemums and cherry blossoms. I found myself incorporating more and more of the classical Japanese images into my work.
It’s an interesting challenge, to take apart a kimono and reconfigure it for a western piece of clothing. Kimonos are very long, quite narrow and often have the design along the bottom half. Readjusting it for a fitted, shorter and fuller garment is like a puzzle. How do I respectively refocus the design to a brand new look for someone today?
For example this pretty fabric, a garden scene with all kinds of flowers and birds, remade into my trench coat design. The original kimono had this one design across the front and into the sleeves. I wanted to break apart that design and readjust it so it flowed across the different sections in a new way.
The back.
Sometimes, when the design has been cut in a new way, especially if it’s a big oversize design, it becomes so abstracted that it’s hard to tell what it’s suppose to represent.
Can you see? It’s fans with various traditional images, mountains, trees, the ocean and cherry blossoms.
The back.
And this amazing one, with big bold chrysanthemums, other flowers and some very subtle swirling lines indicating a stream. By shifting the fabric, the finished coat has an asymmetrical thing going on, with more red on one shoulder and sleeve.
The back.
Not just these three, I have many others, some pieced, others appliquéd or beaded, all getting ready for the Baltimore 2026 show.
It’s coming up! February 20-22. Check out more here.
Jaw dropping! Beauty lives on…
Thank you Betsy!
Beautifully written commentary that is so informative about the amazing fabrics and your clever design methods. Stunning examples of your wonderful work too.