Balenciaga and de Borchgrave

May 22, 2011

This is going to be the summer of inspiration. I am determined to see several exhibits around the country.

Balenciaga Exhibit

1st stop, San Francisco to see the Balenciaga and Isabel de Borchgrave exhibits.

Balenciaga, that most fabulous mid-century Spanish designer, is at the De Young Museum. Wow and wow again. Amazingly beautiful!

Cristobal Balenciaga was a master of that most difficult of skills; editing down to the essence of an idea.

I took a picture or two, including the one above of flamenco inspired gowns,… until a very polite guard asked me to stop. They have a no photo policy. Sigh.

So instead of photos, I made quick sketches on the back of a card. I had to remind myself what my art teachers had told me, to really remember something, draw it.

I also found postcards and books in the gift shop.

But what gorgeous things I saw! Like this coat, with soft folds down the sleeves. It’s fashion as architecture, the logical outcome of form, function and fabric.

Balenciaga Postcards

And the simplicity of this matador inspired pink jacket with a fantastic trim of gradated pink balls. So cool.

Towards the end of his career, Balenciaga’s work became more conceptual and his designs more abstracted, as exemplified by this beautiful 1967 wedding gown.

Bridal Dress

Or this fantastic sculptural silk evening dress. Wild, yes?

Cristobal Balenciaga opened his first fashion house in 1919. In 1937, after the outbreak of the Spanish civil war, he moved to Paris where he opened the House of Balenciaga. After years of success and acclaim, he closed his fashion house in 1968 and retired to his home in Spain.

Hiro Balenciaga

Next stop, the Legion of Honor to see Isabelle de Borchgrave’s paper dresses.

Isabelle de Borchgrave's paper dresses

Yes, paper. Inexpensive common paper, painted, folded,  crimped, gathered and pierced to look like fabric.

One of my favorite rooms, an homage to Fortuny. The gowns, the sheer curtain walls, the lace-like tent top, all painted and manipulated paper.

Fortuny Room

De Borchgrave looks to historical fashion for her inspirations, everything from the widest of the 18th century paniers to the narrow and straight dresses of the 1920s, the ruffled lace collars of Elizabethan England to the sheer and gossamer silks of Fortuny’s early 20h century Venice.

A detail of a "lace" collar, paper, painted and carefully cut.

A detail of a “lace” collar, paper, painted and [very!] carefully cut.

Amazing, yes? I am satisfied.

Ann Williamson, Designer

Ann Williamson

Clothing Designer Ann Williamson
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2 Comments

  1. Avatar

    Looks like a most satisfying San Francisco trip.

    Reply
  2. Avatar

    Oh my! Paper. Thank you for sharing these, and the Balenciaga wower’s! I so admire that you got yourselves to all these amazing shows around the country. So happy to get to some tastes of the beauty and artfulness you witnessed. If luck holds, maybe you’ll show us some of those sketches in detail.

    Reply

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Ann Williamson, Designer

Ann Williamson

Clothing Designer Ann Williamson
Oregon Art Beat video

 

One scarf

 

Search Ann’s Blog by Category

Ann Williamson, designer, with models
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“I measure the success of my clothing by how it looks and feels on the woman who wears it.
I want each piece to flatter and enhance the body it adorns.”